T-Shirt不簡單: A Lesson on Textile Printing

Wednesday, March 3, 2010 by 小元儿 / Mark
看似簡單的T-Shirt﹐要做出來﹐ 其中要了解的﹐學習的﹐掌握的太多太多了。 單單印刷的種類與區別就繁瑣的要命。 借用“維基百科”和大家分享一下布料印刷的種類與簡單歷史。
Most people think making T-shirts is quite easy, but the fact of the matter is, there is so much to know, learn and master before you can bring out a decent product.  Even learning the types of printing methods and their pros/cons is tedious and time-consuming 。A lesson on textile printing: "From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia".

Textile printing is the process of applying colour to fabric in definite patterns or designs. In properly printed fabrics the colour is bonded with the fiber, so as to resist washing and friction. Textile printing is related to dyeing but, whereas in dyeing proper the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one colour, in printing one or more colours are applied to it in certain parts only, and in sharply defined patterns.

(Design for a hand woodblock printed textile, showing the complexity of the blocks used to make repeating patterns. Evenlode by William Morris, 1883. )

In printing, wooden blocks, stencils, engraved plates, rollers, or silkscreens are used to place colours on the fabric. Colourants used in printing contain dyes thickened to prevent the colour from spreading by capillary attraction beyond the limits of the pattern or design.
Traditional textile printing techniques may be broadly categorised into four styles:


(在我現在上班的公司辦公室里﹐掛著一位同事在7﹐8年前印出她生平第一個印花泳裝布料﹐  這是在不久以前美國新澤西州一家很有名的大型印刷廠Miss Brenner 做的。 但這件家工廠也在幾年前﹐由于沒辦法與亞洲﹐尤其是中國同行競爭中不幸倒閉了)
  • Direct printing, in which colourants containing dyes, thickeners, and the mordants or substances necessary for fixing the colour on the cloth are printed in the desired pattern.
  • The printing of a mordant in the desired pattern prior to dyeing cloth; the color adheres only where the mordant was printed 
  • Resist dyeing, in which a wax or other substance is printed onto fabric which is subsequently dyed. The waxed areas do not accept the dye, leaving uncoloured patterns against a coloured ground.
  • Discharge printing, in which a bleaching agent is printed onto previously dyed fabrics to remove some or all of the colour.
Resist and discharge techniques were particularly fashionable  in the 19th century, as were combination techniques in which   indigo resist was used to create blue backgrounds prior to block-printing of other colours.[1] Most modern industrialised printing uses direct printing techniques.
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